Rome without the tourists: seven places where Romans go themselves
Seven places where Rome lives without queues or souvenirs: quarters, views, markets and quiet hills.
Most people live Rome on a single loop: the Colosseum, the Trevi, the Vatican and back. The city begins where that route ends. Below are seven places we send guests to when they want to see Rome, not a postcard.
1. The Aventine Hill and the 'keyhole'
A quiet green hill above the city. Look through the keyhole of the gate of the Knights of Malta: within it, the dome of St Peter's is perfectly framed at the end of the avenue. Nearby is the Orange Garden, with one of the best views of Rome.
2. Testaccio
A former working district, today Rome's culinary capital. The morning market Mercato di Testaccio, classic trattorie, no tourist gloss.
3. The Coppedè quarter
A hidden architectural spectacle among residential streets: fairy-tale façades, chimeras, a fountain with frogs. The tour buses do not come here, yet it is five minutes from the centre.
4. Monti at sunset
The oldest quarter in the city, wedged between the Colosseum and the centre. Small bars, wine shops, vintage. In the evening the Romans come out here, not the groups with flags.
5. The Basilica of San Clemente
Three minutes from the Colosseum, but almost empty. Inside, three levels of history one beneath another: a medieval church, beneath it an early Christian basilica, and lower still a Roman temple of Mithras.
6. Trastevere in the morning
The same postcard quarter, but until noon it belongs to the locals: coffee at the bar, the market, empty lanes without the crowd.
7. The Gianicolo
A hill above Trastevere with a panorama of the whole city. At noon the historic cannon fires here, and at sunset those in the know gather: from here is the widest view of the city, and it is free.
The rule is simple: turn two blocks off the postcard route, and Rome itself begins.
Hungry on the way — here is where to eat, away from the tourists. And if you are after the best light, keep the guide to sunsets and viewpoints.
All these points sit neatly on a single route: open the City Map of Rome. In Prime my own places open up in each of these quarters.
